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Viewlix panel for HRAP 4 kai

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Dear

I have a very nice HRAP 4 Kai modded like this:

- IMP v2 coupled with Multi-Console Cthulhu (PC/X-Box/PS/PS2/PS3/NGC/DC/SAT/NES/SNES, etc ...) and PCB Xbox360 HORI v2
-PS3/PS4 original PCB.

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up classic PS3/PS4, down the other....

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Full Sanwa parts inside. My wish is to change panel for viewlix style like with same materials from original panel. is it possible and where can I buy it?

full black or red/black.

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Thanks

Auto-Fire/Turbo button switches from HRAP PS2 3D prints files templates

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Dear

Someone can share 3D prints files templates for Auto-Fire/Turbo button switches from HRAP PS2.

THX

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Does the wireless Mad Catz PS3 Fightpad work on PC?

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Hi,

I couldn't find this topic using the search function. So, there's this guy selling his wireless Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Fightpad for a very cheap price up on eBay. Thing is,

(1) The thing uses a dongle. Since the wireless Hori PS3 Tekken 6 fightstick doesn't really work on PC I'm more than hesitant.
(2) Since it is difficult to get Mad Catz arcade sticks to work on Computer Gamepads might pose a Problem as well, I pressume.

So, before I do anything I would like to inquire first of all if anyone uses this gamepad. I have the wired version for the 360 and it works well on a Computer, but that's 360.

sanwa standard vs silent

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I am having trouble choosing between standards and silents sanwas. i was leaning towards silent so i wouldnt have to worry about playing at night but during my research i have heard people say that silents feel a little too different and one person remarked that he "dropped more combos" because of the silent buttons.

so im worrying if the silent buttons will negatively effect my game play. i am more on the casual side but am working to getting serious. i have the hori rap 4 kai with the hori hayabusa matte buttons.

how would these push buttons compare to one another?

Help:trying to install silent hyabusa into hori tekken 5 10th anniversary ps2 fightstick

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Hello...im pretty new to the forum and was wondering if someone here could help me out.

I bought a used hori hrap4 silent and swapped the buttons and joystick with sanwa buttons and a jlf...i did this bc the setup felt pretty worn

Im trying to put my silent hyabusa into my ps2 hori t5...but i cant figure out if i need a harness or if i can somehow wire the existing wires off the pcb to the six prongs coming off the hyabusa...

Any help would be appreciated!

Battop or Balltop? Which is your fave and why?

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I recently made the switch from balltop to battop and I'm enjoying using the battop a lot. I have a woodgrain one that works really well. I find it easier to execute moves as is extends the length of the shaft and makes it where I can get more leverage into the corners and diagonals, etc. Which is your favorite and why?

Difference into this sticks

Dreamcast Total Control Plus Converter Problems

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Hey Everyone!

I just got 2 Total Control Adapters today

a Normal Total Control and a Total Control Plus.

I've tested them on my Dreamcast and I have the following problem:

sometimes the Converters doesn't work at all. The controllers are getting Power, but the Dreamcast doesn't recognize any button inputs and sometimes the controllers do work, but just for a couple of seconds then the dreamcast says I shall reconnect the controller.

I got them from a friend and he guranteed me that they worked before he shipped them. Tested them with various PS1 and PS2 controllers. All my Dreamcast Controllers work perfectly fine on my DC. I hadn't had the chance to test another dreamcast yet. Does any one of you ever had a similar problem?

Best Black Friday HDTV For Fighters?

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I am contemplating buying a discounted Black Friday TV, specifically for gaming.
I play fighting games 90% of the time, so I need a TV that will respond quickly to button presses/precise joystick movements.
I'd like to get a TV that is between 50-60 inches for my game room. I am also aiming to spend around $500.
Guidance would be appreciated. Thank you!

My first stick mod - Mayflash to Sega Genesis w/ Sanwa

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While there is plenty of info out there on Mayflash modding, I did a few unique things with mine, that I thought worth sharing. Plus I'm proud of myself for working through countless hurdles and wanted to show it off. A bit of a learning experience for me, so forgive me if some of my realizations and insights are a bit noobish.

The idea was born when I recently picked up a sega genesis used, from the local retro vg store. Add to that an Everdrive MD, and I quickly became dissatisfied with inferior controls, since I am accustomed to Sanwa everything. And as we all know, Chthulhu and other current offerings on the market don't work with the Sega Genesis.

I first purchased an official Sega Fight Stick (model MK-1627), with hopes that it would palatable. Pure garbage.

I then got a Tototek PS2-to-Genesis adapter, with hopes it would work with my Chuthulhu/Imp dual mod sticks. It did not. I then tested a PS2 dualshock controller with the Tototek, and it worked. I did a bit of research on the Mayflash, and saw some tuts on modding them, and thought I would give that a shot.

When I got the Mayflash, I thought I would give it a try, and if it worked with the Tototek, maybe just keep it stock. It didn't. So, the mod was on.

As you can see, I deleted the stock joystick housing, and sanded down the inside of the case until it was relatively smooth. A $20 dremel wannabe rotary tool from Harbor Freight made quick work of the deletions and reaming out the stock holes to accept Sanwa (30mm) buttons. Not wanting bolts sticking through the face of the case, and unable to make the JLW that I had laying around work with the stock mounting, creating a flat mounting surface and healthy quantities of super glue to secure the JLW was the only option.
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I first tried to use the PS2 dualshock PCB. I tried the solderless mod, and couldn't get it to work to save my life. The particular model of PS2 DS that I had was not represented by any information (with pinouts) that I could find online. After much frustration with that, the light bulb finally went on: "Why am I not using the PCB out of the official Sega Genesis fight stick?" That was the game changer.

Once figuring out the circuitry and exposing the necessary traces, soldering and wiring went pretty quickly. One thing that took a little extra attention was getting start and select to work. The stock Mayflash "brains PCB" has the contact points for start and select. So, I had to make that PCB work in tandem with the Sega PCB. A bit of testing and troubleshooting lead me to realize that the circuits from the brains on the brains PCB had to be broken. De-soldering a micro resistor in each button's circuit (R16 and R20) fixed that up nicely.
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Real estate was a bit of a challenge. The Sega PCB is pretty big, as you can see. The cord's ability to interface with the Mayflash case also limited the PCB's placement within the case. At the end of the day, the "brains PCB" secured back into its original place, and the terminals on the button microswitches had to be bent to allow the Sega PCB to sit cleanly within the case.
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The stick works perfectly, and I'm stoked that the engine is stock and official Sega hardware, and not requiring an adapter or emulating.
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Madcatz Fightstick Round 2 360 Mod for PS3

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Hey everyone,

first of all I did use the search option but I could not find the information that I was looking for. Sometimes the links are dated or they were not what I desired.

My brother gave me his old Street Fighter (Tournament Edition) FightStick Round 2 for Xbox 360 and
I wanted to use it with my Playstation 3 - and maybe my future PS4. I have been looking in post and discussions e.g toodles.
I found the following PCBs that where proposed:
  • Cerberus: works only for the TE-S
  • TEasy Mod: not available anymore
  • CHIMP: unable to find the PCB ( I considered this tutorial)

I live in Germany and the shipping cost from the US are sometimes the price of a new PCB. Therefore ordering form the US is too pricey. But if there is no
other way I would order it anyways.

I would be glad if someone can provide links to tutorials with PCBS so that I can mod my Street Fighter (Tournament Edition) FightStick Round 2.

HDMI Dual Output Splitter to Bypass PS4 HDCP with Capture Card

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Please read the full post before jumping to conclusions.

I have a Live Gamer Extreme going to my monitor and PC from my PS4. I also use my PS4 for Netflix/Twitch/Amazon Prime/Hulu/Blu-rays. In order to do this now, I have to unplug my PS4 from the LGE, unplug the LGE from the monitor, then plug the PS4 into the monitor, then go into the menu and enable HDCP. Then when I'm streaming, I have to disable HDCP, then plug the PS4 into the LGE, and plug the LGE into the monitor. That's a lot of hassle. There has to be a better way.

Is it possible to run a dual output splitter from my PS4 in order to make it possible to bypass all the manual cord switching I have to do? Basically, what I would expect to do is to plug the PS4 into the input side, then run one side of outputs directly to the monitor, then the other to the LGE, so that no matter whether I HDCP is enabled or disabled, my monitor will always output without me having to change cables, and then when I want to stream, all I have to do is disable HDCP so that my LGE will work.

I'm assuming it's possible since a PS4 will likely not detect this splitter as setting off HDCP, but obviously I want to make sure before I buy the splitter, and if there's any recommendations on current ones to buy.

Neo Geo SCB-U4 CPO

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Hello friends! I just recently picked up this Neo Geo SCB-U4 cabinet and while its in solid condition (needs a cleaning) the CP has a tear in it. Anyone know what kind of button layout this is and where I might be able to find a CPO (repro is fine) like this?

I don't know much about this cab other than I think it looks great and the size is perfect for an apartment. Any additional info is appreciated! Pics below:

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Saturn Virtua Stick: HSS-0136 Modding

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I purchased a used one from a reseller in Japan at a great price, though despite the it functioning well the buttons are a tad sticky and it takes way more effort to pull off QC/SPD motions with the thick than it should.

Was planning to go to the local indie game store and pick out a new stick, but was unsure of what would be compatible/incompatible as far as new buttons and a stick. Any general ones that are safe to mod this with? Also, I'm guess not, but would replacing these parts be PNP, or require soldering and general knowledge of arcade stick innards? Rather not break this.

Thanks.

Live on FB Jasenscustoms building a stick


Custom Project Diva Arcade FT/CT Controller (Build Advice/Help Wanted)

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So I am currently planning a controller for PD FT/CT controller to replicate the arcade cabinet as much as possible. the parts list is as follows so far.

4x 100mm clear/white buttons (Sanwa OBSA-100UMQ)
3x Standard arcade buttons (Start, PS button, Yellow button on the arcade ver. (also a start button I think))
2x Triangle buttons for the right and left slider (To compliment the tiny touch pad)
1x Brook touch sensor (yeah, tiny AF but I want to throw a touch of some sort up top)
1x Brook Fight Board
1x Panel mount USB connector

I will likely be making the case out of laser cut acrylic (probably opaque) as I don't want to deal with plywood or MDF and having to fill and sand it to make the finish smooth. as for box construction I am planning on 4 walls to form the "frame" and the top and bottom panels will bolt onto that.

My questions are:
Does anyone have experience with the Brook touch sensor? Can other touch sensors or some method to elongate it be used?

What fastening methods are preferred on acrylic? (captive nut (t cutout style), through bolts, solvent welding, etc.)

What thickness acrylic? I am concerned with the width of this project and the acrylic becoming "springy", would 8 or 10mm do it? I may possibly do two layers so that I can use 3mm top to fit in Sanwa triangle and round snap in buttons, easy to do?

Just a basic rendering of the layout so far, just the top panel with the main buttons, I am waiting on the touch panel to arrive to see the sizing and placement (fully expecting it to be marginally bigger than the DS4 touch pad) but as of now this is what I have.
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My fight stick build "hori pad hack"

Should I buy the Fightstick Alpha?

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Hey all,

I guess I wouldn't consider myself a fighting game newbie now that I've been playing as an amateur for three years. I've played a lot of Street Fighter and KOF on my PC using the keyboard, and it's pretty much my "controller" of choice with 2D fighters. However, I've been thinking about expanding on my control style and decided to shop for fightsticks, because it's nearly impossible (for me) to do a perfect SPD using the arrow keys (I mostly use shotos, but I experimented with Zangief once and it didn't go as planned). I have bought a gamepad to help fix that issue a little bit, but it just didn't satisfy me enough, especially when you have to use the shoulder buttons for fierce and roundhouse attacks. So...I need something that will help me improve on my dilemma. I need a PC-compatible fightstick.

Mad Catz seems to be the biggest consumer for fightsticks. I have seen many different models in the past, but when I visited their site they only had three available: TE2+, TES+, and the Fightstick Alpha (I'm pretty sure these models are upgraded versions of the previous models, if I'm not mistaken). TE2+ was the most expensive, so I crossed that out of my list. TES+ looked pretty cool with that black-and-yellow Shadaloo emblem and was $30 cheaper, but still too big for my budget. Then came the Alpha, which had the most reliable price and had only six buttons instead of eight. I am used to the six button control style at arcades, so this one seemed like a no-brainer. I've checked out reviews for it on Amazon, and many people have had complaints that the buttons would jam a lot, were springy, small grip, etc. The IGN review stated that despite the foam padding underneath, it would still move a lot even on a flat surface (especially since it's lightweight), and would also be uncomfortable when placing it on your legs like most fighting gamers do. So I've actually been focusing more on the TES+ for some time. I watched a video by Maximilian Dood where he only talked about fightsticks, and he did note that heavier sticks were better because they would move less. Seeing how the TES+ was heavier than the TE2+ by comparisons, I was intrigued by it more. Still though, the Alpha seems like a beginner's kind of stick. This will be my first fightstick I'll ever get, and as long as it does its job, and it does it nicely, I'll still enjoy it. I just want your opinion on which fightstick I should get: TES+ or Alpha. Thanks in advance!

How to split signal from ps4 into two monitors?

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How can this be done without adding lag?

I have a BenQ monitor... However the color sucks and I'd like to buy a fancy monitor or tv that looks great when watching movies or playing other types of games.

Is there any way to have the best of both worlds?

Looking to build a hitbox stick, requesting some advice

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I was thinking about building a hitbox stick but had a few things that I wanted to ask some more experienced creators about.

First I'm really wanting to try a hitbox stick, I thought about picking up an official one but those look tougher to mod than most.

I thought about the tek-innovations case, but wasn't sure it would quite stand up to the test of time, any thoughts on it for a hitbox? Or any suggestions on where I could buy a case for a hitbox?

Button wise I was thinking sanwa, however I'm also very curious about using some LEDs either in the stick itself depending on the case or with the buttons. Any advice/links/tutorials on using LEDs particuarly for the buttons would be great.

For the board I was thinking about going with the Brook Universal fighting board just so I can use it on PS4, Xbox One and PC, but am open to other ideas.

Any thoughts on any of this would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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